707 Scout

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

To judge from the first two months, 2012 is looking like another banner year for new restaurants in the Napa Valley. In addition to St. Helena’s two high profile newbies opening in the next few months (Goose & Gander in the former Martini House space, French Blue on Main Street), and the new Turkish/Mediterranean Tarla Grill next to the AVIA Hotel in Napa, two regional American spots are expanding downtown Napa’s restaurant range at the north end of town.

CIA graduate Curtis Lindley and his wife Tara plan to open ~NAPA VALLEY BISCUITS~ by the end of February in the long-vacant spot previously occupied by Frankie’s Deli. Lindley’s grandfather owned and operated a fried chicken restaurant in east Texas while Lindley was growing up, and now that he’s done stints at places like Solage and Martini House, he wants to replicate that kind of quality homemade comfort food in this new venture. He makes all his own barbecue sauces, salad dressings, ketchup, and jams from scratch, but unlike many other (read: ALL the other) Southern comfort food establishments in Napa Valley, Lindley’s restaurant will price its downhome meals at attainable, everyday levels—a half chicken, buttermilk biscuits, and all the fixings will cost $10. Yes, ma’am. Keep an eye out for breakfast biscuit sandwiches, pulled pork sammies, fried chicken and waffles, fried green tomatoes, fried pickles, red velvet cake, root beer popsicles, sweet tea, and vintage sodas. The plan is to serve breakfast and lunch every day starting at 7am, plus dinner on Friday and Saturday nights from 5pm-9pm. Sounds like Soscol Cafe is about to get some stiff competition for the broke and hungover crowd. 1502 Main St. at Napa St., Napa.

Several major players in the Lark Creek Restaurant Group are venturing into the food truck world with ~PASTRANOMY~, a classic East Coast deli-themed truck. The feisty Napa Planning Commission reluctantly granted a use permit to the project once the backers agreed to repaint all the parking spaces in the private lot where it will live on a permanent basis, and change the truck exterior from a mesmerizing display of pastrami porn to a far less distracting tan background with maroon lettering and silhouette of customers waiting in line. (No joke. See the Napa Valley Register’s coverage here.) While the truck’s signage may have lost some titillation points, its menu still sounds promising: hand-sliced pastrami, corned beef, and Reuben sandwiches, plus cheesecake and Dr. Brown’s sodas. No opening date has been announced, but the permit is good for 12 months. When it’s ready to rock, the deli truck will be parked in the lot at the corner of Main St. and Clinton St. in Napa.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

Rising star chef Aaron London of ~UBUNTU~ announced last week that he is leaving the wine country’s temple of vegetarian gastronomy to open his own restaurant in San Francisco. Ubuntu’s surprising five-month winter hiatus this year provided an easy transition out of Napa, and he’s been spending his break in the city training to be the head cook and bottle washer at his new venture. His goal: to work a stint in every restaurant station, both front and back of the house (check him out behind the bar at Locanda).

London is cagey with details of where and what his future restaurant will be, but will hopefully open up more once he secures the space he says he’s got his eye on, and the build-out gets underway. He did tell Grub Street that “it’s not a one-word answer” whether he will continue in the all-vegetable style he honed while at Ubuntu, but that all of his past work experiences will influence the cuisine. The break with Ubuntu’s owner Sandy Lawrence was apparently amicable, but no word yet on what we can expect when Ubuntu reopens this spring.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

~THE GIRL & THE FIG~ helped put Sonoma on the map as a dining destination when it opened 14 years ago, and partners Sondra Bernstein and John Toulze continue to push boundaries on California wine country cuisine. They invited me over recently to check out their restaurant family’s latest ventures and seasonal specials, which, predictably, are legion.

It’s clear from the produce-driven menus I saw that the fig empire is making great use of its new biodynamic vegetable garden, located at Imagery Estate Winery. Their garden blog now shares the seasonal developments throughout the year as well, with plenty of pictures at every step of the planting, cultivating, harvesting, and feasting process.

In addition, Sondra and John are rocking their MANO FORMATE charcuterie, which does an award-winning coppa, a fantabulous lardo-like pancetta rubbed with sage, nutmeg and pepper, and many, many others. Charcuterie making is a highly addictive pastime apparently, and chef John told me he’s constantly experimenting with different paste mixes, curing pressures, and meat cuts throughout the year. Look for lots of neat cured meats nestled among the produce this year.

Somehow, Sondra and John have also just released a new cookbook entitled Plats du Jour, which is a glorious full-color homage to the artisan food and wine producers of Sonoma County. As you might guess from the title, the book celebrates the homey seasonal dishes at the center of French daily cooking, which the girl & the fig creates every day as part of their prix-fixe menu ($34 for three full courses). This cookbook would be just as appropriate on a coffee table as in the kitchen, thanks to its gorgeous photos, interesting sidebars, and overall philosophy.

To celebrate the book’s release, the fig empire is running a special plat du jour promotion through March. If you order a prix-fixe dinner at all three restaurants between now and March, you can present your receipts to collect a fourth free Cena or plat du jour dinner at the restaurant of your choice, anytime you like. Not too shabby.

the girl & the fig, 110 W. Spain St. at 1st St. W., Sonoma, 707-938-3634; the fig café, 13690 Arnold Dr. at O’Donnell Ln., Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130; ESTATE, 400 W. Spain St. at 4th St. W., Sonoma, 707-933-3663.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

~ESTATE~, the lone Italian member of the girl’s family, has always been known for its fun promotions, like Pizza & Pinot happy hour ($15 for a pizza and glass of local pinot noir), Sunday Bubbles & Brunch ($3 prosecco and mimosa bar, holla!), and the uh-mazing four-course Cena di Famiglia ($26). In my humble opinion, this place has some of wine country’s best—and most delicious—deals on evening feasting, bar none.

In addition to its usual crowd pleasers, though, ESTATE has just added a new party theme called Negroni & Nibbles. Every Tuesday night in the bar from 5pm on, you can score a Negroni and some complimentary nibbles from the chef (with your first round) for only $6. In addition to the classic version of the cocktail, ESTATE does a Negroni Sbagliato (prosecco, Punt e Mes, Campari), Aperol Negroni (gin, Aperol, Carpano Antica), and the Cin Cyn (gin, Cynar, sweet vermouth) to mix things up, Sonoma style.

They’ve also introduced an artisanal grappa cart with a mind-boggling array of different options. I was floored (both figuratively and literally) by the enormous range and variety of styles. A delicate little chamomile-infused number by Distilleria Marolo (made from nebbiolo grapes) bore absolutely no resemblance to the peaty, bourbon-like Spirit of the Harvest grappa produced by Sonoma Valley Portworks from petite sirah grapes. The obscure citron-infused grappa (“di acqua di cedro”) from Nardini was a fresh and true palate cleanser, totally unlike the gut-searing grappas of hellfire that most of us have tried. My server also hooked us up with a taste of the “Mirtillo Martini,” a tasty concoction of blueberry-infused grappa, honey-infused grappa, and grenache verjus that deserves a permanent spot on the drinks menu.

If you like grappa, or if you think you don’t like grappa, you need to take a trip on this grappa cart and grab a cab home.

ESTATE, 400 W. Spain St. at 4th St. W., Sonoma, 707-933-3663.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

There’s a lot of tasty action going down in Sonoma these days. The gorgeous and historic Ledson Hotel on the Sonoma Square recently began offering Sunday brunches at its ~CENTRE DU VIN~ restaurant, with a mostly French-inspired menu of Benedicts, quiches, crêpes, and omelets. They also have a very naughty plate of biscuits and duck confit gravy that MUST NOT be missed. This is franglais at its finest, seriously one of the best brunch dishes of recent memory. The chef confessed that he eats this bad boy every Sunday before he starts service, and you should too. No, seriously. 480 1st St. E. between E. Napa and E. Spain Sts., Sonoma, 707-996-9779.

Up in Guerneville, ~BIG BOTTOM MARKET~ has added a new celebrity sandwich to their lineup for the month of January, honoring Sister Sparkle Plenty, one of the founding members of the Russian River chapter of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence. “The Exalted One,” as this month’s offering is named, combines roast beef, caramelized onions, arugula, and blue cheese spread on a brioche roll from Sebastopol’s Village Bakery. The market is also offering three healthy salad options in its deli case throughout the month of January, and a new selection of $15 wines to help people stick to their resolutions for 2012. 16228 Main St. between Armstrong Woods Rd. and Church St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295.

Now that Sheana Davis has moved ~THE EPICUREAN CONNECTION~ just a few steps off the Sonoma Square, it’s even easier to score her award-winning Delice de la Vallee and Crème de Fromage cheese (served at French Laundry and other discriminating establishments), bacon maple syrup, pinot noir verjus, Black Pig pork, Community Grains pastas and flour, and a million other awesome gourmet groceries. No food-loving individual can go in that store and not find something they want to devour. The little café in the back of the store also serves a small breakfast menu and lunch, with ample community table seating inside. 122 W. Napa St. between 1st and 2nd Sts. W., Sonoma, 707-935-7960.

The 11th annual ~FEAST OF THE OLIVE DINNER~ will take place on Saturday January 28th at Ramekins Culinary School. This year, 18 of Sonoma’s top chefs are joining forces to create a multi-course family-style dinner honoring the region’s second largest crop. The team includes chefs from such delicious establishments as the girl & the fig, ESTATE, Santé, Café La Haye, La Salette, El Dorado Kitchen, Depot Hotel Restaurant, Hot Box Grill, and many more—including Jason Rose of Ram’s Gate Winery, who came to Sonoma after stints with the Delfina and TyFlo restaurant groups. The dinner will showcase olive as the star ingredient, as well as olive oils from The Olive Press and Figone’s of California, and wines from local wineries like Imagery, Gloria Ferrer, Jacuzzi, Cline, B.R. Cohn, and Akóma Zoúme. Tickets are $150 per person, available by calling 707-996-1090 ext. 108.

According to the Kenwood Press, French Laundy alum Ari Weiswasser and his wife Erinn Benziger (Mike Benziger’s daughter) will be opening a new restaurant called ~THE GLEN ELLEN STAR~ this spring in the space formerly occupied by Saffron. The restaurant will feature local produce—as is now practically required in Sonoma—but in a refreshing twist will be emphasizing the wood-fired traditions of Argentina. Should be an interesting addition to the dining scene in Glen Ellen. An 8-seat counter overlooking the open kitchen, patio seating for 20, and dining room for 32 means lots of options for the lucky few who get in. 13648 Arnold Dr. at Warm Springs Rd., Glen Ellen.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

Last week I had the delicious privilege of attending the media preview of this year’s ~PIGS & PINOT~ extravaganza at the Hotel Healdsburg. Our hosts had put together an express version of the event’s Friday night Pinot Cup competition led by its creative mastermind Daryl Groom, as well as a spectacularly porky luncheon coordinated by chefs Charlie Palmer and Dustin Valette. The day began with mixed housemade charcuterie paired with the Aureole Cuvée (made in partnership with Iron Horse Vineyards), followed by an earthy porcini velouté with julienne of crispy coppa (beautifully accented by the sweet cherry of the 2009 Rochioli Three Corner being poured), succulent pork tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto on a bed of shredded braised shoulder, with violet mustard béarnaise (ideal for the floral, earth-driven silkiness of the 2008 Soter Vineyards Mineral Springs), and a chocolate peanut butter butterbomb that brought out all the rich cocoa notes of the 2009 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard.

In addition to all this piggy goodness, we blind tasted through 14 of the 60 pinot noirs entered in this year’s Pinot Cup, guided by the irreverent humor and infectious grin of Daryl Groom (former head of Penfolds’ winemaking program and current winemaker for Groom Wines and the inspiring non-profit Colby Red). The competition was very stiff, but in the end we media types voted as our winners two first-time entrants to the Pinot Cup: a 2009 Graton Ridge from the Russian River Valley in our top spot, and the 2007 Kings Mountain pinot from the Santa Cruz Mountains as runner up. Everyone agreed that we would have happily drunk just about any of the entrants we tried, so the professional judges will have it pretty hard picking their own winners from the field of 60 on March 23rd.

Charlie Palmer himself popped in to chat about his obsession with pinot noir (he has his own vineyard), his excitement about this year’s event, and the local provenance of the porcine stars. The man is disarmingly passionate, funny, and down to earth. Keep an eye out for him in SF this spring as he redevelops Union Square’s Crescent Hotel into a boutique, “chef-driven” haven from which to enjoy fresh, local cuisine.

If you can’t score a ticket to the seventh annual Pigs & Pinot event (the highly prized à la carte tickets are available beginning January 17th for Visa Signature cardholders, and January 20th for everyone else; check website for details), it’s still worth heading up to Healdsburg before or after for a meal. Dry Creek Kitchen will be offering some of chef Valette’s favorite pork creations and pinot pairings in February, March, and April. Plan a Thursday night visit to score the “20 for $20” discount—20 specially selected bottles of local wine discounted to $20 per bottle for the night—or just bring your own favorite bottle of Sonoma wine to enjoy free corkage, anytime. Dry Creek Kitchen, Hotel Healdsburg, 317 Healdsburg Ave. between Matheson & North Sts., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330.

By 707 correspondent, Deirdre Bourdet.

Don’t be disheartened by rampant seasonal closures, because January is actually the best time to eat your way through the wine country’s best, at a fraction of the usual cost. This month kicks off Yountville’s third annual ~MOVEABLE FEAST~, a delectable discounted romp through the (Michelin) star-studded town that continues through Wednesday February 29th. This year’s special offerings include such tasty and romantic options as couples’ lunch and dinner prix fixes at Bistro Jeanty ($55 for lunch, $70 for dinner—for both of you), complimentary wine and international chocolate tastings at Cosentino Winery, and complimentary cheese and charcuterie plates at Girard and Somerston wineries (with 48 hours’ advance notice to the wineries, please).

This year’s Feast also rounded up some seriously rockin’ hotel deals in Y-ville’s swankiest spots, so you won’t have to drive home after dinner. Check out Hotel Yountville’s deluxe king room, gastronomic breakfast for two in the guests-only Hopper Creek Kitchen (now led by Sean O’Toole, formerly of the Quince/Cotogna world as well as Bardessono), access to the hotel’s enormous new spa and its 25+ winery partners, plus a bottle of sparkling wine for only $229 (Sunday through Thursdays only). For even more eco-luxe action, Bardessono is offering up a fantasy king spa suite plus a three-course dinner for two (at its newly rechristened Lucy restaurant and bar) plus a free tasting at Hill Family Estate for $429. These two are just the tip of the hotel deal iceberg, so check out all the details on the event website, remembering that these deals are always subject to availability, and certain blackout periods and restrictions may apply.

January 2012 is also ~NAPA VALLEY RESTAURANT MONTH~—a county-wide coordination of dining perks and deals from Napa to Calistoga and everywhere in between. Free bubbly at Angèle Restaurant (just mention Restaurant Month), $20.12 prix-fixe menus at Auberge du Soleil, and hot dining/hotel packages at the stunning AVIA Hotel are just the beginning of the alphabetical listings. There are also several spots (Fish Story, and FARM on Wednesday nights) discounting their entire wine lists by 50%, offering a seriously worthwhile opportunity to expand your palate and try those bottles you’ve always wondered about. All the participating businesses and the fine print of their various discounts are posted at the event website.

Also: on top of all the other event-specific discounts, ~BRIX~ is touting an extra special wintertime lunch deal—two courses and a glass of vino for $19, available weekdays through the end of February. Chef Chris Jones took over the stoves at Brix last summer after a stint as the executive chef for ESTATE and the girl & the fig in Sonoma, and he’s brought a new wine country sensibility to the menus. Scope out the daily changing lunch prix fixes here to coordinate your visit with just the right wintry meal.